From: "Than Putzig" <
than@putzig.com
>
Date: Tue Jan 23, 2001
6:35 am
Subject: Cape Town and Namibia
Greetings from Swakopmund, Namibia!
Chris and I are now a week into our overland truck journey to
Victoria Falls from Cape Town. We had a blessedly pleasant few days
in Cape Town to relax, shake off the dust from West Africa, and tour
around the town a bit. We were happily surprised to discover that
Cape Town is the nearest thing to home which we've encountered on the
entire trip. It's very modern and thriving and we enjoyed wandering
around the town, correctly billed as one of the world's most scenic,
checking out the Waterfront (a huge American-style indoor mall, many
separate shops and restaurants, a brewpub [sampled a tasty bitter].
and even a sushi bar [yum!]), downtown (Long street in THE place to
be, with funky bars, restaurants, shops, and lots of backpacker
hotels), and the surrounding hills. On Sunday the 14th, we went on a
hike of around 15-20 km, leaving our hostel about 9:30, hiking up
Signal Hill (maybe 300 m), then Lion's Head (about 600 m) where we
had lunch, and finally up to the top of Table Mountain (just over
1000 m). The view over the city, the port, the surrounding hills, and
the Cape of Good Hope from the top of each hill was absolutely
stunning, getting increasingly better as we went along.
After our traveling struggles in West Africa, we decided that we were
in need of a long break from worrying about daily logistics. We found
out that overland truck trips are very popular and quite economical
(about US$25 per day, not including beverages) and decided to sign on
to one that left last Tuesday from Cape Town. Our truck belongs to
the company Umkulu and they've been doing a great job, feeding us
very well and entertaining us with fun activities and great scenery.
We worked our way up north along the Atlantic, cutting inland a bit
and crossing into Namibia at the Orange River, where we camped out
for two nights. We then proceeded further on into the Namib Desert,
stopping a couple of times along the way for the evening and to hike
in canyons and across dune fields. One canyon was particularly
impressive, with a large fault forming a double terrace in the canyon
walls and the hour's hike down was followed by a refreshing swim in a
pond left in the otherwise dried up riverbed. We hiked back up to the
rim just in time to catch the sunset. Another day, we hiked up a huge
dune (300 or 400 m above the plain - reportedly, the Namib has some
of the world's highest dunes) and then some of the people ran
footraces down the face of the highest dune (I ran down first and
videoed the event). For a sense of how high it is, at top speed, it
took a athletic German medical student just over one minute to race
down. Several people wiped out and that will certainly make for some
entertaining footage on the video.
We're now back at the Atlantic coast in the town of Swakopmund,
camping out last night just south of town on the seaside, where we
had an amusing party last night on the dock bar involving excessive
amounts of beer, gin, rum, tequila, and various vivid shades of spray-
on hair color (most went for combinations of yellow, red, green, and
blue, but I had to be different, so striped my hair with white and
face with black, in an attempt to emulate the native zebra). This
morning, some of us opted for activities in the desert, and I chose
to go sand boarding with the three Germans from the truck. This was
great fun and relatively cheap ($20 for three hours, versus the $55
quad biking for 1.5 hours or $150 sky diving for 10 minutes. It also
made a good substitute for my usual skiing & snowboarding that I'll
be missing out on this season.
Tomorrow, we move on toward Atosha Park, followed by Windhoek and
then on into Botswana and eventually Victoria Falls.
Best wishes to you all,
Than Putzig & Chris Tarr